Grand Teton National Park: Advanced Grand Teton Routes
The Petzoldt and Underhill ridges are two of the most enjoyable moderate routes on the Grand. Lying on the southerly side of the mountain, they enjoy less wind and more sun than many routes, are never crowded, and are convenient to our high camp. Both of these routes are more committing endeavors than our usual ascent route on the Pownall-Gilkey. Several rope lengths of rock climbing gain the top of the Petzoldt and Underhill ridges and the upper reaches of the mountain; the routes then finish on easier snow or rock to reach the summit. The extra effort is well worth it, with pitch upon pitch of pleasant climbing to be had!
Petzoldt Ridge III 5.6-5.7
The Petzoldt was put up in 1941 by our mentor, Paul Petzoldt; at 5.6 the climbing is enjoyable and spectacular. The highly recommended 5.7 variation, The Direct Petzoldt, was established twelve years later by Willy Unsoeld and crew, and has both an exciting bombay chimney pitch and a unique rock window one must negotiate. We start summit day with one of two possible approaches from high camp, to the base of the Stettner Couloir. The golden rock pillar to the left of the Stettner is the Petzoldt ridge; the technical climbing launches upward from here for several varied pitches. When at the top of the main Petzoldt Ridge tower, a fifty foot rappel is required to reach the Ford Couloir or the Upper Exum ridge. Either way, enjoyable high altitude snow or rock climbing and scrambling continues for several hundred feet to the summit. We descend the standard route to the Upper Saddle, on down to the Lower Saddle and into Garnet Canyon.
Underhill Ridge II/III 5.6-5.8
The Underhill was first climbed in 1931. The regular route is an enjoyable four pitch 5.6 while the Direct variation at 5.8 provides a spicier technical challenge. The approach is similar to that of the Petzoldt ridge; the Underhill starts on the east side of the Stettner Couloir. The route involves a myriad of chimneys, cracks and face climbing on sometimes spectacularly steep rock. The Underhill ridge tops out at the head of the Stettner Couloir; one must then snow climb or rock climb up several hundred feet of the southeast face to gain the summit.