Grand Teton National Park: The Great Alpine Climbs of the Grand
The East Ridge, the North Face, the North Ridge, the Cathedral and Grand Traverses
are major mountaineering challenges. They involve long, committing days, and provide technical challenges that employ both route finding and climbing skills. For the experienced mountaineer, these climbs are some of the great North American test pieces, and are simply not to be missed!
East Ridge III 5.7
The East Ridge was a remarkable feat when it was completed in 1929 by Robert Underhill and Kenneth Henderson—it was only the second route established on the Grand! A four thousand foot long route up one of the Grand’s most prominent ridges, it requires speedy climbing to gain the summit in a day. The obstacles of the Molar Tooth and the Second Tower require time and cleverness to negotiate; the final East Ridge snowfield is capped by the last difficulty at the summit rock block.
North Face IV 5.8
The most famed and respected north face in the U.S., this route has it all. Starting with the approach up the Teton Glacier and negotiating the bergschrund the route then involves several ropelengths, including the Guano Chimney, to reach the First Ledge, the prominent snow/ledge system in the center face. The route then continues up to the Second and Third ledges, where the Direct Finish is the recommended route to the summit.
North Ridge IV 5.8
An all time classic, the North Ridge contains some famous pitches, such as the Chockstone Chimney, the Slab pitch, and the Italian Cracks variation. Their actual difficulty depends on their conditions at the time of the climb. The ridge proper begins at the Grandstand, a flattish feature between the Grand and Mount Owen. The North Ridge can be approached via the Teton Glacier and the Grandstand, or it can be rappelled into from the Second Ledge area.
Cathedral Traverse
A prized hit, this series of climbs is a link-up of Teewinot, Owen, and the Grand. The traverse ascends three of the Teton classic routes in a single multi-day push: Teewinot’s East Face, Owen’s East Ridge, and the Grand’s North Ridge. Outstanding!
Grand Traverse
For the extremely motivated and superfit climber, the Grand Traverse is the Teton coup de grace—an enchainment of all of the major Teton peaks starting with Teewinot and ending with Nez Perce. It starts with the Cathedral Traverse, continuing on with the Middle Teton, South Teton, Gilkey Tower, Spaulding Peak, Cloudveil Dome, and Nez Perce.