Grand Teton National Park: Overnight Teton Climbs
Mt. Moran, Mt. Owen, Middle Teton, Buck Mountain, Teewinot, and more. These peaks all offer some of the Tetons’ finest mountain adventures. Widely regarded as the birthplace of North American mountaineering, the Teton Range contains superb rock climbs and mountain objectives for all skill levels. For the ultimate wilderness mountaineering experience, consider Mt. Moran’s dramatic Direct South Buttress, described in Steve Roper and Allen Steck’s Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. For a moderate, yet strikingly beautiful, route to this imposing summit, Mt. Moran’s CMC route is an excellent choice. Mt. Owen, one of the most spectacular of the Teton summits, offers many fine alpine ascents, including the highly recommended Koven and East Ridge routes. Buck Mountain, in the southern portion of the range, is a perfect introduction to mountaineering, where one can experience technical climbing and the thrill of a mountain bivouac. Let us help you choose one best suited to your ability and enthusiasm.
We also offer options for rock climbs and peak ascents out of our Corbet High Camp. Classic routes of the range, such as the Red Sentinel, are minutes away from camp.
Prices are per person in groups of two or more. Call for private rates.
The price for two or three day climbs is $325/day and up, depending on difficulty and duration.
The price for multi-day non-technical "walk-up" ascents is $315/day. These climbs do not require climbing classes or technical gear, but all peaks in the Tetons involve long days, rewarded by beautiful scenery and breathtaking views.
I. Overnight Teton Climbs: Visit some of the less crowded peaks of the range, and see the wilder side of the Tetons! We recommend these classics to those looking for a next step after climbing the Grand Teton.
Mt. MoranRising dramatically from Jackson and Leigh Lakes, Mt. Moran is the most striking mountain in the northern Tetons. From Jackson Lake Lodge, it is one of the most picturesque mountains in North America. It is a unique and remote climbing experience. Since there are no maintained trails to the base of the mountain the approach is made by canoe. In early summer we climb the Skillet Glacier, an elegant snow climb leading directly to the summit. Once the snow melts and the rock dries out, we change to the CMC route, a classic rock route on the southeast face.
CMC Route- Mt Moran 12,605’ II, 5.5
The favored summer rock route is the CMC, a long moderate technical climb. On the first day, we canoe across Leigh Lake then hike up the steep slopes to the stunning CMC camp, one of the best sites in the range. The climbing route is complex and time consuming so a second night is spent at the camp before returning to the valley on the third day.
Skillet Glacier - Mt Moran 12,605’ II, snow/ice AI2+
The Skillet Glacier is a remarkable feature that provides a moderate snow and ice route up the massive Mt Moran. Best done in early season, this unique route is a fine challenge for those seeking a to broaden their experience on a big mountain snow route. It's also the most efficient way to climb Moran. On day one, we use canoes to cross Jackson Lake and hike 2,900 feet up a wild drainage to camp on the glacier's moraine. The next morning, sustained snow climbing up to 50 degrees leads directly to the summit. On the last day we descend the mountain and canoe home.
Northeast Ridge - Mt Moran 12,605’ II, 5.4
Big, rugged Mt Moran is the dominant peak of the northern Tetons. With no maintained trails access is by canoe, making a unique climbing experience. The Northeast Ridge is in wild county across Jackson Lake and offers an easy but long technical climb far from the crowds. It's a fine way to sample traditional Teton mountaineering on one of America's great mountains.
Koven/East Ridge - Mt Owen 12,928’ II, 5.4-5.6
Mt Owen is second only to the Grand Teton in elevation and many consider it to be a more difficult peak. Two rewarding routes, the Koven and the East Ridge, offer the moderately experienced climber the best in classic mountaineering. Because the routes are the same up to the summit formation, they are included together. The East Ridge tackles Mt. Owen's summit via rock that is a bit more challenging than the line the Koven Route follows to the top. Snow climbing skills are required for much of the season to negotiate steep snowfields and couloirs. The routes enter the fascinating cirque of the Teton Glacier and the views of the North Face of the Grand are very impressive. Mt Owen is ascended on a two-day trip with a camp carried high into Glacier Gulch. The second day is usually long and strenuous; a second night at camp is not required but recommended.
Northwest Ice Couloir - Middle Teton 12,804’ II, snow/ice AI3, 5.6
During the summer months this climb transitions from snow to ice. Lying above the lower saddle, it lies in a cleft that one heads straight up, ending very close to the summit.III. Day Climbs: The Tetons host a range of moderate to difficult rock climbs and mountain routes that can be done in a day. While some of the higher peaks can be climbed in a day, remember that the rather lengthy approaches make turning these climbs into an overnight adventure a good option.
Buckingham Ridge-Middle Teton 12,804’ III, 5.7
The Buckingham (aka Southeast) Ridge, honoring first-ascender Bill Buckingham, is one of the Teton's finest long classics. It features many moderate pitches of clean golden rock on a big peak. The quality, length and situation make this a real mountaineering prize for the experienced climber. It is typically done as a two-day trip with a camp in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. Steep snow will be encountered in early to mid-season.
East Face and Ridge- Buck Mtn 11,938’ II, 4th class
Buck Mtn is the southern-most of the big granite Teton peaks. It is usually approached via the Stewart Draw and is much less traveled than the central peaks. The East Face, rising above Timberline Lake, is a straightforward snow climb in early and mid-season. A favorite alternate route is the adjacent East Ridge, a scenic technical climb combining snow with easy rock. It's a great place for acquiring moutaineering experience in a spectacular setting. Buck Mtn is usually done either as a long day climb or as a comfortable two-day trip. The campsite is in the timber in a boulder-scattered basin 2500 feet above the valley floor. We particularly recommend the two-day trip as a great introduction to Teton climbing for entry-level climbers, for those with families, and for those seeking a less-strenuous trip.
II. Climbs from Corbet High Camp: we are lucky to be surrounded numerous granite spires at our high camp; they are collectively known as the Garnet Towers and have many excellent rock climbs in their own right. Sample a few on a four day high camp visit, and enjoy the camp amenities at night. Space at high camp is limited - please call the office well in advance to make reservations or for more information.
Corkscrew Route- Garnet Towers II 5.9
One of the most aesthetic climbs in Garnet Canyon, this steep red granite prow of the Watchtower ascends corners, cracks, and chimneys for several pitches. It ends right across from high camp!
Irene’s Arete—Garnet Canyon III 5.8-5.10a
Many consider Irene's Arete to be the best rock climb in the Park. Advanced rock climbers will be delighted with the clean cracks and superb rock of this Garnet Canyon prow. It's named for Teton great Irene Beardsley (Ortenburger) who discovered this prize with John Dietschy in 1957. Irene's is justifiably popular with airy, continuous pitches amongst spectacular surroundings. This very strenuous one-day climb has a long approach necessitating an early start. It can also be conveniently done on a multi-day basis from Corbet High Camp.
Red Sentinel - Garnet Towers 11,200+’ II, 5.7
The Red Sentinel is a striking pinnacle that can only be seen from certain strategic positions within the Tetons. It sits between the West Face of Disappointment Peak and the Grand Teton itself. The most popular route involves a wide fist crack to a traverse to a long pitch of thin and exposed face climbing. The rating in no way prepares the climber for how spectacular and committing this route actually is. The descent is a full rope length, free hanging rappel! It doesn't get much better than that. The base of the route is but 10 minutes from Corbet High Camp.
West Face - Disappointment Peak 11,618’ II, 5.4-5.7
This is a surprisingly pleasant and easy climb considering the formidable appearence of the West Face. The rock is steep but adequate holds are plentiful. The approach from Corbet High Camp is roughly 10 or 15 minutes and the climb takes but a few hours camp to camp. From the Valley floor the West Face would be a very long day.
Okie’s Thorn 11,840+’ II, 5.6, East Face-Tepee Pillar 12,266’ II, 5.7
These pillars are minutes from high camp and achieve summits that are not often visited. In a spectacular setting, one can contemplate the views up the East Face of the Grand Teton from these climbs.