Highpoints: Granite Peak
Granite Peak, the highest summit in Montana at 12,799', is located in the Beartooth Mountains just north of Yellowstone National Park. It is a worthy climb requiring rock and snow mountaineering skills and has a strenuous approach. Granite Peak is considered by many to be the most challenging high point summit after Denali. JHMG's Granite Peak trips meet at 8:00 am at the West Rosebud (Mystic Lake) trailhead on the first scheduled day of the trip. Because there is no pre-trip organization meeting or gear check at our offcie, it is important that all details be dealt with beforehand by phone. Once the food and gear have been distributed and the packs loaded the approach to Mystic Lake begins.
At Mystic Lake there are two route choices. One, the spectacular Froze to Death Plateau, is steep and exposed to the elements but is shorter than the alternative, and the summit camp is conveniently placed very high. The second, Huckleberry Creek, isn't as steep and is more protected but it is longer, has a lower summit camp, and once the snow has melted in mid-season offers extensive boulder fields that cannot be avoided. Your guide will determine which route will be most appropriate for you and your party based on current conditions, usually the choice is obvious before the trip begins. Either way, two days are spent getting to the summit camp.
On Summit day the East Ridge route is used from either of the approaches. Snowfields (boulder fields later in the season) and scrambling lead to the infamous "snowbridge", a narrow ridge with steep couloirs falling away on both sides. Above, scrambling and technical (5.4) rock climbing interspersed with comfortable ledges lead to the summit. The descent uses the same route, usually requiring 2 or 3 rappels. On the final day lighter packs and downhill hiking make the hike to the trail head reasonable.